Want a high quality Diamond? Avoid These 3 Things

A diamond is never perfect but rather perfect imperfection. Every stone possesses its own unique attributes and characteristics that significantly impact its overall appearance and quality. We know our clients seek to purchase the best diamond their money can afford. But what exactly discerns the higher quality from the lower quality? How do you know what to look for? And what to avoid? 
We will explore 3 things to avoid when seeking a high-quality diamond, assisting you in finding an exquisite stone for your Engagement Ring.

Avoid Diamonds with Poor Light Performance

A poorly cut diamond will seem dull and lifeless, no matter the size or whether it is flawless/near colourless. This is why it is important to avoid diamonds with a poor cut/poor light performance when searching for a high quality diamond. One of the most critical aspects of a diamond’s beauty lies in its ability to reflect and refract light. Light performance is what is responsible for creating that brilliant sparkle and lustre from the stone. A diamond’s cut can be attributed to how it will interact with light and how bright and white it will appear.

The light performance of a diamond is measured and evaluated through the AEST (Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool). An ASET Map will analyse how a diamond captures and disperses light to determine the cutting grade of the diamond. This light performance analysis will measure the optical symmetry, physical symmetry and optical efficiency of the diamond. Shown on Gemological Lab certificates the AEST map will indicate the brightest areas of the diamond. A symmetrical pattern with red as the most dominant colour is an ideal ASET with some blue and green, whereas white/black is less desirable as it indicates light loss/leakage.

Hearts & Arrows, GCAL 8X and Triple Excellent cut diamonds create exact symmetry and unrivalled light performance. With advances in cutting techniques, the latest technology allows for diamonds to be cut with ultimate precision. These idyllic cuts cause all the light to reflect upwords through the crown of the diamond with their facets interacting with light like a series of mirrors. These bright and glistening diamonds can take up to 4 times longer to produce and require talent and patience by a skilled diamond cutter.  Every facet is perfectly polished for a maximum light-return for the ultimate brilliance, fire and scintillation.

Opting for a diamond with a higher cut grade (excellent or above) will make a diamond appear larger, sparkle brighter and produce intense fire. The ideal cut proportions, precision, polish and symmetry will produce the brightest, most radiant and best quality diamonds.

Avoid Diamonds without Laser Inscription and Corresponding Certificates

If there is no evidence of laser inscription on a diamond,  it is generally an indication it has not been graded by a reputable gemological lab and can call into question the diamond’s authenticity. Avoid purchasing a modern diamond with no laser inscription as there is no verification that it is legitimate or genuine.

A laser inscription is an engraving inscribed by a laser beam including a unique combination of tiny letters and numbers. It can usually be found on the girdle of the diamond and the inscription is performed by the Gemological Laboratory where it has been assessed and certified. The inscription can only be viewed under 10x magnification/microscope and will authenticate and identify the diamond. Reputable Gemological Laboratories include GIA, IGI and GCAL, and both Lab-Grown and Natural diamonds will feature these unique codes corresponding to their gradings.  This microscopic engraving also provides peace of mind if you ever lose your certificates or the diamond is lost or stolen. The laser inscription is permanently registered in either GIA, IGI or GCAL’s databases with a correlating dossier as a record for the diamond.

Whenever purchasing a diamond ring, also be careful to check that the laser inscription on the diamond in your ring matches the GIA, IGI or GCAL certificate. Although uncommon, it is possible for wholesale suppliers, retail staff, jewellers or diamond setters to misidentify the diamonds or jumble them with the wrong certificates. Very slight variations between diamonds can mean stones similar in cut, weight, colour and clarity may be mistaken and mixed up.

By cross-checking the laser inscription on the diamond to the grading certificate, you can confirm that in fact the same diamond is set in the ring.  This will verify the diamond is exactly what you purchased, and assure it hasn’t been switched out or mistaken. Make sure the jeweller or diamond setter sets the diamond in a way that is showing the laser inscription. At Janai we make sure that we are able to show the laser inscription, even once it is set in a ring (the only exception being a full bezel setting which encloses the entire diamond). It is essential for our clients to view that the laser inscription corresponds with their grading certificates before they collect their engagement ring.

Avoid Milky Diamonds

A milky diamond is one that appears hazy and cloudy. Avoid purchasing a milky diamond if you are looking for a high quality stone. They will forever appear dull and lifeless as they do not allow light to pass through effectively. A diamond does not have to be flawless in clarity to shine brightly and have an intense sparkle, but the placement and types of inclusions/blemishes greatly affect its overall brilliance.

Slight imperfections are part of nature's beauty, they do not always impact a diamond as you may think. It is when an inclusion is particularly large in size or dense when it begins to influence the appearance of the diamond. An undesirable milky diamond can have scattered inclusions, blemishes, a cluster of inclusions or can be heavily included. A cloudy diamond is also a term used to describe a milky diamond where a group of crystal/pinpoint inclusions are found closely to one another inside the stone.

Relying purely on certificates and specifications does not guarantee how clear and sparkly a diamond will be in appearance. There will be a diagram detailing the clarity characteristics and position from the Gemology report. GIA certificates will specify all of the inclusions of the individual stone, but will not tell you whether or not the diamond will have a cloudy or milky appearance.

To establish whether or not a diamond is visually affected requires a diamond expert. They will be able to decipher whether the inclusions will impact the diamond’s sparkle. Our team will source diamonds that are vibrant and brilliant and select diamonds where the inclusions are sparse or more dispersed. We seek a lot of diamonds where any flaws are barely visible to the naked eye (eye clean) so none of the diamond’s brilliance, fire and scintillation is diminished.

Milky diamonds aren’t to be confused with those that just need to be cleaned. A buildup of dirt, oil or debris on diamonds can also exhibit a milky, hazy, streaky or dull appearance. But will quickly disappear once cleaned. In actuality, milky diamond is due to microscopic inclusions within the stone rather than a diamond in need of a deep clean.

Finding a high quality diamond will ensure your Engagement Ring is authentic, brilliant, clear and radiant forever. For the most beautiful diamonds, avoid those with poor light performance, without laser inscriptions/certificates and milky diamonds. At Janai we seek the best of the best for our clients to assist them in finding the most precious diamond for their Engagement Ring. One that is of high quality that will sparkle brightly forever.

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Read more: How to AVOID buying bad Diamonds Online